Clothing and Grooming

Shirt Collar
Necessary measures :
collar measurements

Trace a rectangle ABCD
AB = 7 cm or 2,80 inches
AC, BD = 1/2 neck measurement
Go up B to 1,5 cm or 0,60 inch = E
To join ED with a curve.
Go out to the right C to 1 cm or 0,40 inch to have the point F
join DF with a ruler and
continue from F for 1 cm or 0,40 inch = F1
AA1 = 8 cm or 3,20 inches
Join A1 to F1 with a curve

Full Roll Collar

Although this collar is sometimes called the "Peter-Pan," it takes its professional name from the appearance when being worn. The finished collar should have a stand which is equal around the base of the neck. Because of the roll, it is especially pleasing for the woman who has an exceptionally thin, long neck as its round shape softens her angular features. It is youthful, so is not suited to elderly or mature women and should be definitely avoided by the woman having a round face and short, broad neck. When cut on the bias, the roll is less apparent and it appears cut that way in the majority of designs. If you wish to make the experiment, you will see that this collar, when cut wide, will be unpleasant in appearance as width seems to emphasize the rolled appearance. Therefore it is made rather narrow.

1. Trace around the shoulder area of front bodice sloper. Extend the line A-B outward from the shoulder neck point as a guide line.

2. Place the back bodice sloper against this guide line as shown in diagram with points C and B meeting. Fig. 1.

3. Square a guide line from the center front point E. Draw in the desired style line of the collar from the center back to the shoulder seam. Make this follow the general contour of the neckline.

4. Following the same shallow curved line of D-C, continue on to make the front collar line C-E.

5. Because the new collar line C-E is more shallow than the bodice front neckline B-E, it must be extended on to point F or until it equals the original neckline measurement, B-E, to which it will ultimately be attached.

6. From point F, complete the front style line to meet that which has already been sketched into the back section.

NOTE: In this design, a rounded front has been used, but it could be square or the curved lines inverted if desired. The distance that the front of your collar design stands away from the guide line will be the distance the same point will be from the center front edge of your finished blouse when the collar has been attached.

7. Trace out the outline of the collar in blue pencil. Observe that it is a very shallow curved shape. It is this shallow curve, sewed to the deep curve of the garment neckline which produces the roll around the neck.

It is suggested that you try this same type of collar in varying widths and with a variety of front shapes. You will then be able to observe its limitations.

Compare this finished full roll collar pattern with those made for the half-roll and the flat roll collars. Lay the center backs of all three collars one upon the other. Notice that the straighter the neckline, the more rolled the collar will become. This is an important fact to remember when you are designing collars.

Mannish Shirt Collar

If you will compare the shapes of all the collars you have produced thus far, you will see that the less curve there is in the collar, the more stand it will have when worn. The man's collar, being made of a straight strip of shaped fabric produces the extremity of stand all around the neck. It appears in riding shirts and other mannish apparel for women. Men's shirts show a wide variety of proportions and styles to suit the varying facial proportions of men.

Band:

A-B and C-D equal one half neck measurement. F-D equals half back neck measurement. B-D and A-C are equal in length. Locate point E half way between A and C one inch outward for tab lap. Draw curves from A to E and E to F. Note shape of curves.

Collar:

G-H is one half neck circumference. H-J is 1/4 inch longer than B-D.

I-J is one half back neck measurement. K-I equals H-J.

L is 1/16th inch from point G. Draw shallow curve from L to K.

Draw desired style line L-M-I. Edge L-K-H is sewed to collar band at A-B.

CONVERTIBLE COLLARS

Convertible collars are so named because they are designed to be worn either closed or open. When in the closed position, the convertible collar appears somewhat like a half roll collar attached to the neckline. When worn open, the front of the bodice folds back to assume the appearance of revers and the collar has a notched design. Such styles of collars must be accompanied with a facing which is attached to the bodice front so the garment will have a finished appearance either way it is worn.

Naturally, the width of the rever portion is governed by the amount of lap which is provided for closing the garment. They are, therefore, quite similar on all types of styles. The basic neckline is usually lowered slightly to create varied results, and the style line of the front of the collar may be varied as desired. However, as this type of collar is an accompaniment to so many tailored shirt-waist types of blouses and dresses, the proportions have become somewhat standardized and a designer will use what he considers to be the best proportions in many of his garments year after year.

After painstaking analysis in our classrooms, it was found that two types of the convertible sports type collar could be successfully developed on the same cutting principle. Although similar in appearance from a front view, these two collars are quite different in fit in the back.

For the sake of comparison, they are illustrated with similar pointed ends. However, there is no reason why they couldn't have curved ends instead. The important feature is the variance of cut in the back of each. It achieves a different fit.

Active Sports Collar

This collar provides a close fit at the back of the neck when both open and closed. This snug fit at that point makes it more becoming and also more practical for wear under suit jackets and coats.

The first step is to lower the front bodice neck line slightly, removing some of the intense curve.

1. To draft the collar, draw the horizontal line A-B equal to one half the new garment neckline.

2. To locate point C, square a line downward from B equal to one-half desired stand at back. This may vary from 1 to1 1/2 inches as desired.

3. Locate D by squaring a line upward from B which is also equal to half the desired stand.

4. Locate E from point D, a distance equal to D-C plus 1/4 inch. (As this is the style line of the collar, it must be made deep enough to hide seam at neckline.)

5. B-H and E-G equal one half the back neckline measurement. They are squared from points B and E respectively.

6. C-A is squared from C up to a point in line with point H and then breaks to form a compound curve. Complete desired shape of points on collar at F.

NOTE: The guide line A-B equaled the original neckline measurement. Curved line C-A has now become the edge of the collar and will be longer than the straight line A-B. Make A-C equal to A-B by moving E-C inward accordingly. Cut final pattern and make muslin proof with A-F-G-E-D-B-C-H-A comprising the one half of the collar cut on fold at center back.