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Shirt Collar
Necessary measures :
collar measurements

Trace a rectangle ABCD
AB = 7 cm or 2,80 inches
AC, BD = 1/2 neck measurement
Go up B to 1,5 cm or 0,60 inch = E
To join ED with a curve.
Go out to the right C to 1 cm or 0,40 inch to have the point F
join DF with a ruler and
continue from F for 1 cm or 0,40 inch = F1
AA1 = 8 cm or 3,20 inches
Join A1 to F1 with a curve

Full Roll Collar

Although this collar is sometimes called the "Peter-Pan," it takes its professional name from the appearance when being worn. The finished collar should have a stand which is equal around the base of the neck. Because of the roll, it is especially pleasing for the woman who has an exceptionally thin, long neck as its round shape softens her angular features. It is youthful, so is not suited to elderly or mature women and should be definitely avoided by the woman having a round face and short, broad neck. When cut on the bias, the roll is less apparent and it appears cut that way in the majority of designs. If you wish to make the experiment, you will see that this collar, when cut wide, will be unpleasant in appearance as width seems to emphasize the rolled appearance. Therefore it is made rather narrow.

1. Trace around the shoulder area of front bodice sloper. Extend the line A-B outward from the shoulder neck point as a guide line.

2. Place the back bodice sloper against this guide line as shown in diagram with points C and B meeting. Fig. 1.

3. Square a guide line from the center front point E. Draw in the desired style line of the collar from the center back to the shoulder seam. Make this follow the general contour of the neckline.

4. Following the same shallow curved line of D-C, continue on to make the front collar line C-E.

5. Because the new collar line C-E is more shallow than the bodice front neckline B-E, it must be extended on to point F or until it equals the original neckline measurement, B-E, to which it will ultimately be attached.

6. From point F, complete the front style line to meet that which has already been sketched into the back section.

NOTE: In this design, a rounded front has been used, but it could be square or the curved lines inverted if desired. The distance that the front of your collar design stands away from the guide line will be the distance the same point will be from the center front edge of your finished blouse when the collar has been attached.

7. Trace out the outline of the collar in blue pencil. Observe that it is a very shallow curved shape. It is this shallow curve, sewed to the deep curve of the garment neckline which produces the roll around the neck.

It is suggested that you try this same type of collar in varying widths and with a variety of front shapes. You will then be able to observe its limitations.

Compare this finished full roll collar pattern with those made for the half-roll and the flat roll collars. Lay the center backs of all three collars one upon the other. Notice that the straighter the neckline, the more rolled the collar will become. This is an important fact to remember when you are designing collars.

Mannish Shirt Collar

If you will compare the shapes of all the collars you have produced thus far, you will see that the less curve there is in the collar, the more stand it will have when worn. The man's collar, being made of a straight strip of shaped fabric produces the extremity of stand all around the neck. It appears in riding shirts and other mannish apparel for women. Men's shirts show a wide variety of proportions and styles to suit the varying facial proportions of men.

Band:

A-B and C-D equal one half neck measurement. F-D equals half back neck measurement. B-D and A-C are equal in length. Locate point E half way between A and C one inch outward for tab lap. Draw curves from A to E and E to F. Note shape of curves.

Collar:

G-H is one half neck circumference. H-J is 1/4 inch longer than B-D.

I-J is one half back neck measurement. K-I equals H-J.

L is 1/16th inch from point G. Draw shallow curve from L to K.

Draw desired style line L-M-I. Edge L-K-H is sewed to collar band at A-B.

CONVERTIBLE COLLARS

Convertible collars are so named because they are designed to be worn either closed or open. When in the closed position, the convertible collar appears somewhat like a half roll collar attached to the neckline. When worn open, the front of the bodice folds back to assume the appearance of revers and the collar has a notched design. Such styles of collars must be accompanied with a facing which is attached to the bodice front so the garment will have a finished appearance either way it is worn.

Naturally, the width of the rever portion is governed by the amount of lap which is provided for closing the garment. They are, therefore, quite similar on all types of styles. The basic neckline is usually lowered slightly to create varied results, and the style line of the front of the collar may be varied as desired. However, as this type of collar is an accompaniment to so many tailored shirt-waist types of blouses and dresses, the proportions have become somewhat standardized and a designer will use what he considers to be the best proportions in many of his garments year after year.

After painstaking analysis in our classrooms, it was found that two types of the convertible sports type collar could be successfully developed on the same cutting principle. Although similar in appearance from a front view, these two collars are quite different in fit in the back.

For the sake of comparison, they are illustrated with similar pointed ends. However, there is no reason why they couldn't have curved ends instead. The important feature is the variance of cut in the back of each. It achieves a different fit.

Active Sports Collar

This collar provides a close fit at the back of the neck when both open and closed. This snug fit at that point makes it more becoming and also more practical for wear under suit jackets and coats.

The first step is to lower the front bodice neck line slightly, removing some of the intense curve.

1. To draft the collar, draw the horizontal line A-B equal to one half the new garment neckline.

2. To locate point C, square a line downward from B equal to one-half desired stand at back. This may vary from 1 to1 1/2 inches as desired.

3. Locate D by squaring a line upward from B which is also equal to half the desired stand.

4. Locate E from point D, a distance equal to D-C plus 1/4 inch. (As this is the style line of the collar, it must be made deep enough to hide seam at neckline.)

5. B-H and E-G equal one half the back neckline measurement. They are squared from points B and E respectively.

6. C-A is squared from C up to a point in line with point H and then breaks to form a compound curve. Complete desired shape of points on collar at F.

NOTE: The guide line A-B equaled the original neckline measurement. Curved line C-A has now become the edge of the collar and will be longer than the straight line A-B. Make A-C equal to A-B by moving E-C inward accordingly. Cut final pattern and make muslin proof with A-F-G-E-D-B-C-H-A comprising the one half of the collar cut on fold at center back.

MAKE YOUR OWN RUBBER STAMP

You can make your own stamp design to use as a crafting tool to decorate cards and a wide variety of household items. You will need minimal tools and equipment for this project:

- Rubber White Eraser - Tracing Paper

- Pencil - Needle

- Craft Knife - Sandpaper

- Wood Block - Saw

- 1/4" thick Cellulose Sponge - Glue

1. Choose a design that can fit on a white eraser and trace the image onto tracing paper with your pencil making a heavy, thick line.

2. Turn the tracing paper over onto your eraser and draw on top of the lines of the design while applying pressure. This will transfer the design to the top of the eraser.

3. Use a pen to re-mark the pencil line to make them more obvious. The reversed image will be easier to see now and you can cut out the areas of the eraser with a needle that are not part of the design.

4. Using a needle, trace the lines several times to allow the surface of the rubber to be scored. This initial scoring should be away from the image with no undercutting.

5. Next, use a very sharp crafting knife to cut the lines of the image deeper. Cut the angles at a slope with the narrow section towards the top of the eraser.

6. Clean off any left over ink from the eraser and place the stamp on a ink pad to take a test print of the design. This will help you to see where the rough edges of your stamp need to be trimmed. If you make a mistake while cutting, you can use sandpaper to sand-off cuts that are not to deep.

7. Cut the sponge the same shape as the stamp and then glue the sponge to the back of the rubber stamp.

8. Cut a piece of wood that is the same size or slightly larger than your design and glue it to the back of the sponge and rubber stamp piece.

You can use almost any kind of paint permanent or non-permanent for printing your design but generally the thicker the ink the more vibrant the color will be. Be careful not to over-ink your stamp or your result will be a smudged image. If you are using an ink pad lightly bounce the stamp on the surface and avoid pressing down hard. If the image is highly detailed less paint will be needed. Always stamp on a flat hard surface and allow plenty of drying time in-between layered colors. Do not "rock" the stamp when applying it to your surface material because the images could blur. Only light pressure is required around the edges of the stamp. To make sure your stamps stay in good condition you will want to store them rubber side down and clean them immediately after use and between colors. Do not immerse your stamps in water as it could loosed the adhesive. There is a wide variety of stamp cleaning products available commercially or you can blot the image on a paper towel until the ink is gone. Use a solvent based cleaner or liquid detergent and old toothbrush to completely clean difficult designs.

Parallel circuits

If two or more components are connected in parallel they have the same potential difference (voltage) across their ends. The potential differences across the components are the same in magnitude, and they also have identical polarities. The same voltage is applicable to all circuit components connected in parallel. The total current I is the sum of the currents through the individual components, in accordance with Kirchhoff's circuit laws.

Resistors

The current in each individual resistor is found by Ohm's law. Factoring out the voltage gives

Inductors

Inductors follow the same law, in that the total inductance of non-coupled inductors in parallel is equal to the reciprocal of the sum of the reciprocals of their individual inductances:

Capacitors

Capacitors follow the same law using the reciprocals. The total capacitance of capacitors in parallel is equal to the sum of their individual capacitances:

Switches

Two or more switches in parallel, form a logical OR; the circuit carries current if at least one switch is 'on'. See OR gate.

Cells and batteries

If the cells of a battery are connected in parallel, the battery voltage will be the same as the cell voltage but the current supplied by each cell will be a fraction of the total current. For example, if a battery contains four cells connected in parallel and delivers a current of 1 ampere, the current supplied by each cell will be 0.25 ampere. Parallel-connected batteries were widely used to power the valve filaments in portable radios but they are now rare.

The art and design that goes into making buildings is known as architecture. To communicate all aspects of the design, detailed drawings are used. In this field, the term plan is often used when referring to the full section view of these drawings. Architectural drawings describe and document an architect's design.

The applicant for a patent will be required by law to furnish a drawing of the invention whenever the nature of the case requires a drawing to understand the invention. This drawing must be filed with the application. This includes practically all inventions except compositions of matter or processes, but a drawing may also be useful in the case of many processes.

Technical drawings (the document)

Types of technical drawings

The two types of technical drawings are based on graphical projection. This is used to create an image of a three-dimensional object onto a two-dimensional surface.

Two-dimensional representation

Two-dimensional representation uses orthographic projection to create an image where only two of the three dimensions of the object are seen.

Three-dimensional representation

In three-dimensional representation, also referred to as pictorials, all three dimensions, of the three dimensions of an object, are visible.

In the most general sense of the word, a cement is a binder, a substance that sets and hardens independently, and can bind other materials together. The word "cement" traces to the Romans, who used the term opus caementicium to describe masonry resembling modern concrete that was made from crushed rock with burnt lime as binder. The volcanic ash and pulverized brick additives that were added to the burnt lime to obtain a hydraulic binder were later referred to as cementum, cimentum, cäment and cement.

Cement used in construction is characterized as hydraulic or non-hydraulic. Hydraulic cements (e.g. Portland cement) harden because of hydration chemical reactions that occur independently of the admixture's water content; they can harden even underwater or when constantly exposed to wet weather. The chemical reaction that results when the anhydrous cement powder is mixed with water produces hydrates that are not water-soluble. Non-hydraulic cements (e.g. lime and gypsum plaster) must be kept dry in order to gain strength.

Types of modern cement

Portland cement

Cement is made by heating limestone (calcium carbonate), with small quantities of other materials (such as clay) to 1450 °C in a kiln, in a process known as calcination, whereby a molecule of carbon dioxide is liberated from the calcium carbonate to form calcium oxide, or quicklime, which is then blended with the other materials that have been included in the mix . The resulting hard substance, called 'clinker', is then ground with a small amount of gypsum into a powder to make 'Ordinary Portland Cement', the most commonly used type of cement (often referred to as OPC).

Portland cement is a basic ingredient of concrete, mortar and most non-speciality grout. The most common use for Portland cement is in the production of concrete. Concrete is a composite material consisting of aggregate (gravel and sand), cement, and water. As a construction material, concrete can be cast in almost any shape desired, and once hardened, can become a structural (load bearing) element. Portland cement may be gray or white.

Portland cement blendsThese are often available as inter-ground mixtures from cement manufacturers, but similar formulations are often also mixed from the ground components at the concrete mixing plant.

Non-Portland hydraulic cements

Fishpond was the code name given to an extension to the British H2S airborne radar system fitted to Royal Air Force (RAF) Avro Lancaster and Handley Page Halifax heavy bombers during World War II. It was designed to give early warning of German night fighters approaching in the hemisphere below the carrying aircraft out to a range of 30 miles (48.2 km).

The H2S radar was a navigational aid designed to give a map-like display of the ground below the aircraft. The display, known as a Plan Position Indicator (PPI), used a scanning electron beam in a Cathode Ray Tube which scanned from the centre of the display to the edge in a direction corresponding to the direction in which the radar's scanning head was pointing. In order that the centre of the display represented the ground immediately beneath the aircraft, the scan had to be delayed to allow for the transmitted radar pulses to travel from the aircraft to the ground and back again. This delay was derived from a simple radio altimeter.

It was realised that during this undisplayed time echoes would be returning from any other aircraft within the vicinity of the bomber. Accordingly a second display was installed in the radio operator's position which displayed the image suppressed from the navigator's display. This display showed the relatively stationary blips from the bomber formation and, most importantly, the rapidly moving returns from the German night fighters.

TOOLS & EQUIPMENT

Food processing is the set of methods and techniques used to transform raw ingredients into food or to transform food into other forms for consumption by humans or animals either in the home or by the food processing industry. Food processing typically takes clean, harvested crops or butchered animal products and uses these to produce attractive, marketable and often long shelf-life food products. Similar processes are used to produce animal feed.

Food preservation is the process of treating and handling food to stop or greatly slow down spoilage (loss of quality, edibility or nutritive value) caused or accelerated by micro-organisms. Some methods, however, use benign bacteria, yeasts or fungi to add specific qualities and to preserve food (e.g., cheese, wine). Maintaining or creating nutritional value, texture and flavour is important in preserving its value as food. This is culturally dependent, as what qualifies as food fit for humans in one culture may not qualify in another culture.

Preserved Crab-apple(Dried Paradise Apple	* Preserved apple
* Preserved apricot	Preserved Pear Halves with Skin
* Preserved red dates without stone